Designing with thread is an important area

This done by adding

• color or dye or
• extra threads  and  
• both  threads and color

Color is added either before or after weaving.

Additional thread is however done only in course of weaving

• Initially this was done manually which was labor intensive and  time consuming .
• Gradually simple devices were introduced for repetitive work, which was followed by simple machines.

Designing is done by adding extra thread during weaving

• Extra warp – addition of extra thread along the warp
• Extra weft – addition of extra thread along the weft
• Both – addition of extra thread both along the warp and the weft
• Example jamdani of Bengal,  Bamkai of Odisha
• Designing by addition of thread is relatively simpler
• It used to be done by hand and using bamboo pieces for guiding the design.
• The process got mechanised with help of simple devices like the Jala and dobby.
• This advanced with introduction of jacquard which has revolutionised the textile world.

• In this process first the  layout and design of the fabrics are selected
• The common motifs are drawn from the nature like the
• animals, fish, Peacock, conch shell or
• plants like leaf, creepers, rudraksh
• The designs  are then taken on the graph
• The graph is then used
• for adding the fiber in course of weaving
• In a saree, this process is adopted for designing the border, pallu (anchal) or body

• Jaala is a close substitute for jacquard machine for weaving intricate designs.
• Consists of series of sticks and threads attached to it, sticks are lifted up or down, which enable one or a group of threads to be raised or lowered
• This process transfer the design on to the fabrics.
• used for both extra warp and extra weft designing.

• a shedding device (derived from “Draw boy”) used for
  increasing the designing capacity
• Each thread in the warp passes through a heddle, which is used to separate the warp threads for the passage of the weft.
• The heddle is made of cord or wire and is suspended
  on a shaft of a loom.
• Each heddle has an eye in the center where the warp is
  threaded through.
• Each shaft or harness controls a set of threads.
• Raising or lowering several shafts at the same time
  gives a huge variety of possible gaps, through which
  the shuttle containing the weft thread can be thrown.
• The graph designs are taken on to wooden planks
  which are mounted above the loom.
• In course of weaving, this device guide either lifting up
  or pushing down selected yarn which transfer the
  design on the fabrics

• Jacquard is a shedding device – a combination of Needles and Hooks.
• Used for elaborate design, which is not possible on Dobby.
• It lifts the warp threads according to design and produce the design on fabric.
• Skilled workers cut design into cards, which are mounted on the jacquard.
• Jacquard control large number of warp threads independently by means of harness cord, hooks and needles.

• Originated from Bomkai village of
• Chikiti Tahsil of Ganjam District of Odisha
• Originally woven in coarse, low count cotton in red, black, green, yellow and other bright colors.

• Multicolored  supplementary weft and warp end piece and border

• The field warp threads are cut and retied to different colored warp of the end piece, which creates a dense layer of colour for the usually large end piece.
• This time-consuming technique is known as Muhajodi (end piece with joined threads).

• The end piece contains angular discontinues supplementary weft patterns woven in contrasting colours
• Patterns are Rukha (lamp stand), Kantiphula, Dambaru (Small drums) Fish, Peacock etc.

• Muktapunji lattice work of small diamonds is the usual design
• Extra warp pattern end piece on the border is typical feature of this fabrics.