Designing with Dye Resist Dyeing

SHRADDHA-a non-profit organisation

“Resist dyeing” technique of designing fabrics with dye

  • Resist dyeing is the technique in which dye getting into certain parts of the fiber or fabrics is resisted by tying with suitable solvent resistant materials like natural (cotton thread) or synthetic material (polythene).
  • This led to dyeing selectively as per a predetermined designing pattern.
  • This technique is common in the southeast Asian countries like Indonesia, Thailand and is known as Batik, Bandh, Ikat or tie and dye.
  • Resist dyeing of the fiber at the pre-weaving stage is by far the most difficult process.
  • The highly skilled weavers of Odisha have mastered this skill for generations.
  • This is unparalleled and represents the unique feature of handwoven fabrics, which no machine can duplicate.

Bandh ( Ikat / Tie & Dye) fabrics

Handloom weaving with Bandh design is done by weavers living
in geographical clusters on either sides of the river Mahanadi.

Falls under two broad categories

Western Odisha in Sambalpur, Baragarh, Subarnapur, Boudh
districts

  • Woven by highly skilled weavers of Meher caste
  • Forefathers came from Rajasthan by way of Madhya Pradesh
  • Famous for weaving exquisite, complicated designs
  • single and double ikat
  • Motifs drawn from nature (rarely geometrical)
    • Animals- lion, deer, fish
    • Plants- floral, lotus, Rudrakha, creepers

Eastern & coastal Odisha in Maniabadh-Nuapatna cluster in
Cuttack district

  • calligraphy “Khandua pata” with text from Geeta Govind, offered to Lord Jaganath.

Commonly woven on pit looms.

“Bandh” or Resist dyeing technique of designing of Odisha

This process starts with careful selection of the layout and design of the fabric.

Then the selected designs are made on the graph

Then the hank yarn is processed It is tied by highly skilled weavers, as per the graph in a manner, so as to prevent the dye getting into the covered parts and dyeing selectively only the open parts of the yarn.

    Processing yarn for “Bandh” or Resist dyeing

    “Bandh” or Resist dyeing technique of designing of Odisha

    • After first dyeing is completed, the tying material is removed selectively,
    • The yarn is washed with water.
    • The process of dyeing is repeated with the second dye.
    • Again the yarn is washed with water.
    • The process of dyeing is repeated with the third dye and washed.
    • The process is done two to three times with different color as per the design.

    “Bandh” or Resist dyeing technique of designing of Odisha

    • The dyeing is started with the lighter shade.
    • Darker shades are taken up in a gradual manner.
    • In this process, some parts of the yarn gets dyed in multiple color.
    • After completion of the process, the dyed yarn is taken on to the frame and checked.
    • There after the materials is taken on the loom for weaving.

    “Bandh” or Resist dyeing technique of designing of Odisha

    • “Single ikat” is the Tie and dye process done either on the warp or on the weft.
    • “Double ikat” is when it is done both on warp and weft.
      • This process is more requires higher skill both in tie & dye and weaving.
    • Beauty and value of an ikat fabrics depends on the workmanship of the person doing tie & dye as well as the weaver weaving the fabric.
    • Each stage of these two requires optimum skill, eye to details and workmanship.

    Bandh ( Tie & Dye) Fabrics

    Ikat cotton saree

    Baragrh

    Ikat silk saree

    Nuapatna, Cuttack

    Product diversification
    in Ikat Tie & Dye

    Ikat weft single

    cotton yardage from Barpalli

    ikat weft single

    Cotton bedsheet from Nuapatna