Handloom Fabrics of Odisha GI Tagged

SHRADDHA-a non-profit organisation

GI tagged Handloom fabrics of Odisha

Odisha has 24 GI registered products (as on 26.01.2024)

  • Include ten handloom fabrics as indicated below.
  • Each represents designs and weaving process typical to different region.
  • Each category include a range of products viz. saree, scarf, dress material.
  1. GI Application No.-10 – Kotpad Handloom Fabric- Handicraft,
  2. GI Application No.- 22 – Orissa Ikat – Handicraft,
  3. GI Application No.- 136 – Khandua Saree and Fabrics – Handicraft,
  4. GI Application No.167 – Gopalpur Tussar Fabrics – Handicraft,
  5. GI Application No.207 – Dhalapathar Parda & Fabrics – Handicraft ,
  6. GI Application No.208 – Sambalpuri Bandha Saree & Fabrics – Handicraft ,
  7. GI Application No. 217 – Bomkai Saree & Fabrics – Handicraft,
  8. GI Application No.219 – Habaspuri Saree & Fabrics – Handicraft,
  9. GI Application No.220 – Berhampur Patta (Phoda Kumbha) Saree & Joda – Handicraft.
  10. GI Application No.541 – Dungaria Kondh Embroidery Shawl – Handicraft

The Orissa State Handloom Weavers Co-op. Society Ltd.,(BOYANIKA) (address: Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru Marg, Bhubaneswar – 751001, Orissa), State level apex cooperative society was the initial applicant for these products.

Weavers producing these fabrics are required to apply and get registered as per procedure for using GI tags for their fabrics.

Kotpad handloom fabrics

  • Originated from “Kotpad” village in Koraput district, Odisha.
  • woven by weavers of the “Mirgan” tribal community.
  • Unique feature – the vegetable dye of reddish color.
  • yarn dyed with extract from bark of root of the “ Aal” tree.
  • Represent the rich and fascinating story of a unique, timeless tribal textile tradition in Odisha.
  • Original traditional weaving saree on pit looms in coarse cotton yarn,
  • Motifs drawn from nature, common one’s crab, conch, boat, axes, fan, bow, temple, pots, snakes, palanquin bearers, and huts.
  • weaving material and designs diversified to fine count cotton and silk
  • Product diversified to shawls and stoles
  • Registered as “Kotpad Handloom Fabric”- Handicraft
  • Odisha’s first Geographical Indication (GI) sl no 8, application no.10, certificate date: 02.06.2005.

“Orissa Ikat” Bichitrapuri Saree

  • Unique and one of the most popular handwoven traditional sarees, woven by the highly skilled weavers of Bargarh district, Odisha.
  • Typical double Ikat both along warp and weft. Common design – geometric chess board (Pasapalli ) in the body
  • Incorporates traditional touch , common motifs drawn from nature and culture like shankha (conch shell), chakra(wheel), phulla (flower), and animals
  • Traditional fish or rudraksha motifs are woven on the borders in extra warp technique.
  • Body dyed in bright intense colours
  • Weaving material and designs diversified to fine count cotton and silk
  • Product diversified to dress material & stole Registered as “Orissa Ikat” Type- Handicraft

Geographical Indication (GI), sl no 17, application no.22, certificate date: 02.06.2005.

“Orissa Ikat” Utkal Laxmi

A traditional design,

(GI) sl no 17 , application no .22 , certificate date : 02 .06 .2005

Stands for “Utkal”( Excellence in art – other name of Odisha state) and “Lakshmi ” (Goddess of wealth & prosperity, synonymous with women)

Saree designed with flower motifs in multi – colour check board pattern .

Body as well as Pallu woven in double Ikat (Bandh / Tie & Dye) .

Border extra warp with Rudraksha motifs using dobby

Elaborate colours and patterns make it highly artistic & exquisite .

“Khandua Saree and Fabrics”

Origin in the culture and tradition of Lord Jagannath, Puri, Odisha and the famous “Gita Govind” {songs in honour of Lord Govind ( Krishna)} penned by Jayadev, 12th Century eminent poet of Odisha.

As per the diktat of the king, the script of verses “Gita Govind” was to be woven on silk for offering to the Lord. The weaving had to be done in parts, meaning “Khanda” in Odiya, which led to the genesis of Khandua sarees.

Along with Pattachitra, engraving on palm leaves and Gotipua dance, it forms an integral part of the rich culture and tradition of Odisha

woven in 2 to 4 ply silk yarn Single Ikat ( tie & dye or Bandha) – typical to Nuapatna/ Maniabandh area of Cuttack district in coastal Odisha

Main produce Saree with Border in warp tie & dye and Anchal (Pallu) in weft tie & dye.

common motifs drawn from nature – lotus, lion, elephant and creepers designed with bold and natural curves.

Weaving in cotton was taken up for lowering the cost, which made it more affordable and popular and increased the demand. Gradually expanded the base to adjoining areas

Product diversified to stole, scarfs, and dress material.

“Khandua Saree & Fabrics” registered Type- Handicraft under Geographical Indication(GI) sl no 146, application no.136, certificate date: 22.10.2010 .

“Khandua Saree and Fabrics” Naba kothi

  • A traditional design, (GI) sl no 146 , application no .136 , certificate date : 22 .10 .2010
  • “Nabakothi”, also known as “Nabarangi ” stands for “Naba ” meanin g nine and ‘kothi’ meaning houses/blocks – each with a traditional auspicious motifs
  • Woven in single Ikat (Bandh / Tie & Dye) in the body as well as pallu
  • “Rudraksha ” motifs in the border on extra warp using dobby
  • Common motifs – lotus, lion, deer, peacock, butterfly, parrot, elephant and Purna kumbha( pots filled with water and mango leaves on the top)
  • Diversified with weaving in cotton

 

Gopalpur Tussar Fabrics

  • Silk is produced by reeling (unwinding of fibers) silk cocoon , made by the silkworm while metamorphosing from larva to pupae stage . Silk is broadly of two categories (i) Mulberry silk (indigenous to temperate countries like China & Japan) and (ii) Non -mulberry silk (indigenous to tropical countries like India . )
  • Tassar is one of the non -mulberry silk, produced in India by reeling the cocoon of tassar silkworm, which grows outdoor and feeds on the arjan and assan leaves . It is natural grey in colour. Usually, fiber from 4 to 5 cocoons are reeled together for making the tassar yarn
  • Pierced cocoons are spun to tassar gicha yarn, which is thicker and are used for weaving shawls and chaddars .
  • Tassar sarees woven in Gopalpur of Jajpur district has a unique type of luster. Tassar yarn is also dyed in different colours . It is woven with extra warp on border and tie & dye on body and anchal
  • Tassar fabrics include saree, scarfs, stole, dress materials, chaddars, dupattas, bedsheets, furnishing, and wall hangings
  • Gopalpur Tussar Fabrics registered under Geographical Indication (GI) Type – Handicraft, sl no 169 , application no .167 , date 06 .01 .2012 .

“Dhalapathar Parda and Fabrics”

  • originated from “Dhalapathar” village, Khorda district, Odisha.(60 km. from Bhubaneswar)
  • Woven with thick threads using a special weaving technique with the help of Chiaris and cotton handmade Heald shafts.
  • wall hangings are woven with same construction as door curtains in different sizes with different cultural designs.
  • involve intricate thread work on the border and the pallu.
  • Original traditional weaving used to be parda (door curtain), wall hanging, table cover
  • Usually dyed in intense colours, with borders in contrasting colors with 3 shuttle weft and the pallus in extra weft with intricate thread work.
  • Traditional motifs inspired by temple structure nature
  • unique design and beauty has got places in the doors of many handloom, art and craft loving people of Odisha
  • Product diversified to dress material & stole
  • “Dhalapathar Parda and Fabrics” Type- Handicraft registered under Geographical Indication (GI) sl no 174, application no. 207, certificate date: 17.07.2012.

“Sambalpuri Bandha Saree & Fabrics”

  • Unique and one of the most popular handwoven traditional sarees, woven by the highly skilled weavers of Bargarh district, Odisha.
  • Extra warp and Ikat technique woven with checked pattern in the body and broad & elaborate border.
  • common motifs used are shankha (conch shell), chakra(wheel), phulla (flower), and fish woven on the borders in extra warp technique.
  • dyed in bright intense colours
  • weaving material and designs diversified to fine count cotton and silk
  • Product diversified to dress material & stole
  • “Sambalpuri Bandha Saree & Fabrics” Type – Handicraft • registered under Geographical Indication (GI), sl no 175, application no.208, certificate date: 17.07.2012. (design Sachipar saree)

“Bomkai Saree & Fabrics”

  • originated from “Bomkai” village of Ganjam district, Odisha, later spread to Sonepur, Boudh, Dhenkanal district.

  • Woven with extra weft design using jala technique
  • Has intricate thread work on the border and the pallu.
  • Original and traditional weaving saree using coarse cotton yarn, heavier than cotton and silk sarees
  • Dyed in intense colours
  • Borders in contrasting colors with 3 shuttle weft and the pallus in extra weft with intricate thread work.
  • Traditional motifs inspired by nature like swan, deer, lotus, lion and flower
  • Weaving material and designs diversified to fine count cotton and silk
  • Product diversified into dress material & stole
  • “Bomkai Saree & Fabrics” Type- Handicraft
  • registered under Geographical Indication (GI)
  • Sl no 176, application no.217 certificate date 17.07.2012.

Habaspuri saree & fabrics

  • originated from Chicheguda and Kalahandi District, Odisha.
  • Woven with remarkable Anchal, lavishly decorated by traditional motifs.
  • Involve intricate thread work on the border and the pallu.
  • Original traditional weaving used to be saree with Body is decorated with small Butis
  • The extra warp temple motifs are arranged longitudinally on the border.
  • Motifs and patterns widely influenced by the region such as temples, fish and flowers.
  • Habaspuri Saree and Fabrics registered under Geographical Indication(GI) Type- Handicraft,
  • GI sl no 177, application no.219, date 17.07.2012.

“Berhampur Patta (Phoda Kumbha) Saree & Joda”

  • Origin Berhampur town of Ganjam district in the coastal parts of southern Odisha.
  • The fabrics is woven using mulberry silk yarn ( known as patta)
  • Typical feature of this fabrics is “Phoda Khumbha” or temple design woven along the border with a special technique.
  • The border is designed with temple, Katuri, motifs as kumbhas, whereas achal is designed in extra weft called “Salari”.
  • The woven products include saree for ladies, separate dhoti and chaddar for gents, joda (combined dhoti and chaddar), stoles
  • Berhampur Patta (Phoda Kumbha) Saree & Joda Type- Handicraft
  • Geographical Indication (GI) registration sl no 178, application no.220 certificate date 17.07.2012.

“Kapadaganda: Dungaria Kondh Embroidery Shawl”

  • Is Woven by women of the Dongaria Kondh, a vulnerable tribal group (PVTG), living in the Niyamgiri Hills of Rayagada and Kalahandi districts in southern parts of Odisha.
  • forms a part of their rich culture and tradition. Usually, it is presented as a gift to mark major life events like marriage by newlywed bride to her husband. Also, for their own use and as present to guests as a mark of respect and affection. It is worn by both men and women to important ceremonies and occasions; men wear it around the waist and women wrap it around their waist and neck, along with a scarf.
  • The off-white coarse cloth used as a raw material for Kapdaganda is procured from the Domb community, by bartering harvested crops.
  • The motifs are embroidered on the cloth by a needle in three different colored threads – green (symbolizing fertile mountains and hills), yellow (sign of auspiciousness signifying peace, smile, togetherness, health and happiness) and red (symbol of blood, energy, power and revenge).
  • This beautiful traditional craft embodies the rich cultural heritage of the Niyamgiri Dongoria Kandho community. It reflects the skilled craftsmanship passed down through generations.
  • Geographical Indication (GI) registration no 541, application no.773 Type- Handicraft