Products
SHRADDHA-a non-profit organisationIntroduction to Textiles
- Kapada or clothing or fabrics” is one of the three basic needs of mankind , along with Roti, and Makkan .
- Aborigines were using bark of trees and leather of animals for protecting themselves from extreme cold and heat in the nature.
- Climatic and geographical conditions (temperature to be specific based on latitude and altitude of the region) as well as social, Cultural and Religious practices have influence on the use and production of textile
- Science & technology have profound impact on the production of textiles to weaving by power loom and even nonwovens.
- Textiles mark one of the most fascinating features in the evolution of human civilisation.
- Form an integral part of rituals, festivals,
culture, and tradition.

Evolution of Textiles
Fabrics is woven by interlacing two sets of fibers, warp (tana) along the length with weft (bana) along the width.
Till industrial revolution, fabrics was being woven only by handloom.
The textiles industry underwent revolutionary changes by weaving in machine operated looms, processing and garmenting with fashion.
Modern textiles industry has seven major components –
- Fibre -Natural and Man-made
- Yarn by spinning fibre
- Fabrics by weaving yarn either plain or with designs
- Processing fabrics with dyes and chemicals – Natural and Synthetic
- Apparel and garments stitched from fabrics
- Non-woven and
- Technical textiles
Fibres type
- Spun: Cotton, Jute, Flax, etc. (from short staple length fibers)
- Filament: (i) Natural – Silk, Tassar, etc.
- (ii)Manmade (Synthetic) – Polyester, Nylon, Rayon, etc.
- Textured: A continuous filament yarn, processed to introduce durable crimps, coils, loops or other fine distortions.
- Fancy Yarn

Source of natural fibres
From animals –
- Animal hair fibers consist of keratin, a protein formed by repeating units of amino acids.
- Presence of nitrogen makes burning of the fiber slow with emission of a pungent smell.
- Examples: Wool from sheep and
- Silk by reeling cocoons of silkworms
From plants –
- Consist of carbohydrates , which burn rapidly without any smell.
- Seed hair fibers like cotton
- Bast of stem like Jute and hemp
- Miscellaneous fibers.
Wonders of Handloom
Fabrics is woven by loom.
Traditional loom is made from wooden planks with by a comb like device for holding the individual fibers (threads) apart.
Broadly of two categories –
1. Handloom- operated by hand.
2. Power loom – operated by
machine.
Handloom are of
1. Primitive – loin loom
2. Pit loom
3. Frame Loom

“Loom” for weaving fabrics
- A machine or device, which is used for weaving or interlacing two sets of yarn and thread into fabrics.
- The longitudinal (length wise) yarn is called warp (tana) which is interlaced with horizontal (breadth wise ) yarn called weft (Bana).
- The twisted warp threads are held in the loom under pressure to enable the progress of the interweaving of the weft strands.
- Each thread in the warp passes through a heddle, which is used to separate the warp threads for the passage of the weft.
- The heddle is made of cord or wire and is suspended on a shaft of a loom.
- Each heddle has an eye in the center. where the warp is threaded through.
- Each shaft or harness controls a set of threads.
- Raising or lowering several shafts at the same time gives a huge variety of possible gaps, through which the shuttle containing the weft thread can be thrown.
- Reed is a metallic comb, which is fixed to Sley with a Reed cap. The stick of Reed is called Split and the space between two-wire is known as Dent.
- Reed of two types (i) Bamboo Reed and (ii) Steel or Brass Reed.

Primitive Loom
Back strap / Loin / Kamar tanta
- Simplest type of loom
- Made from few pieces of bamboo or wood
- One end is tied to a tree or pillar
- Weight of the weaver is used to create tension and facilitate weaving
- Common to the tribal households of the Northeastern sates
- Each woman has her own loom and weave her own dress
- Usually of narrow width
- Non-commercial, domestic use
- Store house of design
- Efforts for diversifying use

Pit loom
- Frame loom is mounted on a wooden frame, made of wooden planks. The weaver seats at the ground level, with his legs below in a pit .
- Costs relatively less and hence affordable.
- Low height of the house in the rural area enable the weavers to fix designing devices above it.

Frame loom
- Made of wooden planks
- Has proper arrangement fo lseating of the weaver at a raised level
- Keeping legs are at the ground level
- Sturdy, convenient, costs more
- Fixing of designing device lbecomes easy

Chittaranjan Handloom
- semiautomatic loom, sturdy construction, made of iron and wood, commonly used in Bengal
- principal characteristic-in its beating up take up and let off motion
- For beat up, two wheels upon the top shaft connect the slay at two ends with two levers
- A five wheel positive take-up motion has been adopted to regulate pics per inch
- Shedding & picking motion in this loom work as fly shuttle loom.
- Production rate is high.

Basics of designing handloom fabrics
“Apa Ruchi Khana Par Ruchi Pahanna” common saying meaning “One should eat as per one’s own
choice, but should wear fabrics as per other’s choice”
The skilled weavers weave fabrics, each piece of which is different from the other at ease.
This ability of handloom to produce unique fabrics, each piece having features different from the other,
gives the owner a sense of pride and tremendous satisfaction
This is the main strength of handloom fabric
Designing a handloom fabric is a complex process.
Designing is done in three stages –
- Processing the yarn before weaving
- During weaving with addition of yarn / other material, or
- After weaving
The overall process is known as Hand crafting, which cover all that is done by hand including handloom
(restricted to the loom stage)
Process of designing handloom fabric
Fall under five broad stages, namely
- Weaving
- Dyeing
- Printing
- Painting
- Embroidering
Designing handloom fabric
at Weaving stage
1. The simplest fabrics design woven on handloom is Khadi
- Woven with handspun grey yarn (without any dyeing ) on the warp and the weft.
2. Striped design comes next
- Woven by using colored/ grey yarn along the warp or weft.
3. Designing with addition of yarn on to the warp and/ or weft comes next
- Known as “Extra warp” or “Extra weft”
4. Dyeing with color provides the next option for designing
- “Resist dyeing” or Ikat of Bandh is one of the techniques used before weaving
- After weaving has various options like block printing
5. Usually more that one of these techniques are adopted by the weavers as per the requirements of weaving a particular designed fabrics.
Designing handloom fabric
with dyeing at pre-Weaving stage
In this method,
Yarn is dyed before weaving
The most techniques is “Resist dyeing”, commonly known as Tie & dye, Bandh or Ikkat
The desired pattern design is made on to the graph
Yarn is processed and tied by highly skilled weavers as per the graph
The tied yarn is dyed in a light colour to start with
It is then washed, and the tied parts are opened .
This process is repeated 2 to 3 times to get the desired pattern .
After completion of the process the dyed yarn is taken on to the frame, checked and then taken on
the loom for weaving
Tie and dye process is done either only with the warp or on the weft or on both
Accordingly, the fabrics design is warp ikkat, or weft ikkat of double ikkat
“Resist dyeing” for designing handloom
fabrics
This technique “Resist dyeing”, commonly known as Tie & dye, Bandh or Ikkat
is resorted to for processing the yarn before weaving
In this method, the desired pattern design is made on to the graph
Yarn is processed and tied by highly skilled weavers as per the graph
The tied yarn is dyed in a light colour to start with
It is then washed, and the tied parts are opened .
This process is repeated 2 to 3 times to get the desired pattern .
After completion of the process the dyed yarn is taken on to the frame, checked and then taken on the
loom for weaving
Tie and dye process is done either only with the warp or on the weft or on both
Accordingly, the fabrics design is warp ikkat, or weft ikkat of double ikkat
Designing by jaala
- Jaala is a close substitute for jacquard machine for weaving intricate designs.
- Consists of series of sticks and threads attached to it, sticks are lifted up or down, which enable one or a group of threads to be raised or lowered
- This process transfer the design on to the fabrics.
- used for both extra warp and extra weft designing.

Designing by Dobby
- a shedding device (derived from “Draw boy”) used for
increasing the designing capacity - Each thread in the warp passes through a heddle, which is used to separate the warp threads for the passage of the weft.
- The heddle is made of cord or wire and is suspended
on a shaft of a loom. - Each heddle has an eye in the center where the warp is
threaded through. - Each shaft or harness controls a set of threads.
- Raising or lowering several shafts at the same time
gives a huge variety of possible gaps, through which
the shuttle containing the weft thread can be thrown. - The graph designs are taken on to wooden planks
which are mounted above the loom. - In course of weaving, this device guide either lifting up
or pushing down selected yarn which transfer the
design on the fabrics

Designing by Jacquard
- Jacquard is a shedding device – a combination of Needles and Hooks.
- Used for elaborate design, which is not possible on Dobby.
- It lifts the warp threads according to design and produce the design on fabric.
- Skilled workers cut design into cards, which are mounted on the jacquard.
- Jacquard control large number of warp threads independently by means of harness cord, hooks and needles.

Pashmina weaving on Frame loom
-
Weaving of Pashmina shawl
-
is exclusive
-
In respect of the fineness of design
-
Is peculiar to the Kashmir valley

Geographical Indication (GI)
- Geographical Indication (GI), a community right, is a subset of Intellectual Property Rights (IPR). It refers to the unique, reputed and special product of a geographical area associated with a particular community.
- It Is used to identify agricultural and nonagricultural goods including manufactured goods, natural goods, handicrafts and foodstuffs originating in a specific geographical area, which has a reputation for special quality or characteristics unique to the geographical indication.
- Since inception, 420 products have been registered under Section 2 (f) of GI Act 1999 (as on 14.07.2022 https://ipindia.gov.in/registered-gls.htm).
- 17 GI products of Odisha have been registered so far, which include nine handloom products namely (1) GI Application No.-10 – Kotpad Handloom Fabric- Handicraft, (2) GI Application No.- 22 – Orissa Ikat – Handicraft, (3) GI Application No.- 136 – Khandua Saree and Fabrics – Handicraft, (4) GI Application No.167 – Gopalpur Tussar Fabrics – Handicraft, (5) GI Application No.207 – Dhalapathar Parda & Fabrics – Handicraft ,(6) GI Application No.208 – Sambalpuri Bandha Saree & Fabrics – Handicraft ,(7) GI Application No. 217 – Bomkai Saree & Fabrics – Handicraft,(8) GI Application No.219 – Habaspuri Saree & Fabrics – Handicraft, and (9) GI Application No.220 – Berhampur Patta (Phoda Kumbha) Saree & Joda – Handicraft.
- The Orissa State Handloom Weavers Co-op. Society Ltd.,(BOYANIKA) (address: Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru Marg, Bhubaneswar – 751001, Orissa), State level apex cooperative society was the applicant for these products. Other producers are required to take action for getting their name included for their product as per procedure.
- GI registration helps the consumers to identify the authenticity of the products and its promotion and marketing within India and abroad.
Intellectual Property Rights (IPR) &
Geographical Indicator(GI)
- After industrial revolution, science and technology played an increasingly important role in production and marketing of goods and services.
- Outcome of the business operations in general and profit made in the operations depended upon the new innovations in providing new and better-quality services to the consumers.
- New innovations led to higher profits and made the organisations to spend time and money on it.
- Private and educational institutions invested on Research & Developments (R&D).
It became necessary to safeguard the interest of the organisation/ individuals engaged in (R&D) in respect of the new innovations –
seeking their right over it and restricting others form copying it unless permitted by them on payment of a royalty or otherwise
Evolution of Intellectual Property Rights(IPR)
Legal rights arising out of an intellectual activity – literary, artistic or industrial, originated in the Paris Convention for the protection of industrial property and inventions in 1883.
Led to International Copyright Act 1886.
The General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT) was formed in 1949
World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO) was created in 1960
World Trade Organization (WTO), created In 1977, dealt with the development & understanding of IPR.
Agreement on Trade Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights (TRIPS) (from 1st January 1995).
Laid down the minimum standards for protection and enforcement of intellectual property rights in member countries, which are required to promote effective and adequate protection of intellectual property rights with a view to reducing distortions and impediments to international trade.
Protection of distinctive signs of Industrial Property has two parts
(i) Trademarks, which distinguish the goods or services of one undertaking from those of other undertakings and
(ii) Geographical indications, which identify a good as originating in a place where a given characteristic of the good is essentially attributable to its geographical origin.
GI aims at stimulating protection of distinctive sign and ensuring fair competition and to protect consumers, by enabling them to make informed choices between various goods and services. The protection may last indefinitely.
IPR in India
The Trade and Merchandise Marks Act 1884 – first Indian Law on IPR.
Agreement on Trade Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights (TRIPS) wef 1st January 1995) As a developing country, had a transition period of five years till January 01, 2000, to apply the provisions of the Agreement(TRIPS), which was extended further till January 01, 2005 – for extending product patent protection to areas of technology not protected so far, in the areas of pharmaceuticals and agricultural chemicals.
Geographical Indications(GI)
Goods – that aspect of industrial property, which adverts to the geographical indication referring to a country or to a place, situated there is as being the country or place or origin of that product. The given product should have a specific geographical origin and posse’s qualities or a reputation due to that place of origin.
A place name is sometimes used to identify a product.
This geographical indication not only refers to where the product was made, but more importantly, it identifies the product’s special characteristics which are the result of the products origin.
Geographical Indication (GI) is a sign
- used on products that have a specific geographical origin
and - possess qualities or a reputation that are due to that
origin. -
In order to function as a GI, a sign must identify a product as originating in a given place.

“Geographical Indication(GI)”
THE GEOGRAPHJCAL INDICATIONS OF GOODS (REGISTRATION AND PROTECTION) ACT, 1999
1. “Geographical indication”, in relation to goods, means
- an indication which identifies such goods as agricultural goods, natural goods or manufactured goods
- as originating, or manufactured in the territory of a country, or a region or locality in that territory,
- where a given quality, reputation or other characteristic of such goods is
- essentially attributable to its geographical origin and
- in case where such goods are manufactured goods one of the activities of either the production or of processing or preparation of the goods concerned takes place in such territory, region or locality, as the case may be {Section 1 (3) }
2. GI is a community Right for
3. an agricultural, natural or a manufactured product (handicrafts, foodstuff, & industrial goods) originating from a definite geographical territory
GI Registration in India
The GI tag ensures that
none other than those registered as authorized users (or at least those residing inside the geographic territory) are allowed to use the popular product name.
Registration of a GI confers the following rights on the registered proprietor and the authorized users:
1.Exclusive right to use of the GI in relation to the goods in respect of which GI is registered.
2. Right to obtain relief in respect of infringement of GI.
A GI is registered for an initial period of ten years,
- This may be renewed from time to time.
Dealt by Department of Industrial Policy & Promotion of International Trade (DPIIT), Ministry of Commerce & Industry, Government of India .The Registration Process given in website and office are
https://ipindia.gov.in/the-registration-process-gi.htm
Geographical Indications Registry, Intellectual Property Office Building, Industrial Estate, G.S.T Road, Guindy,
Chennai – 600 032,Phone: 044 – 22502091-93 & 98,Fax: 044 – 22502090,
E-mail: gir-ipo@nic.in , Website: ipindia.gov.in
GI tag for a product seeks to protect the manufacturers/producers, who produce these genuine products
GI tag for Rasagolla
- Darjeeling tea became the first GI tagged product in India, in 2004–2005
- Altogether, 344 products given GI Registration (till Dec 2020)
- Rasogola given GI tags both for West Bengal and Odisha
- Banglar Rasogolla no 303
- Odisha Rasagola no 329 (later on 29.07.2019)

GI – U tube links
“What is GI Tag? जीआई टैग क्या है? इसका उपयोग क्यो किया जाता है
Current Affairs 2018″
“What is Geographical Indication (GI) Tag? GI Tag VS Trademark in
Hindi | Current Affairs 2020″
Kotpad fabrics
- originated from “Kotpad” village in Koraput district, Odisha.
- woven by weavers of the “Mirgan” tribal community.
- Unique feature – the vegetable dye of reddish color.
- yarn dyed with extract from bark of root of the “ Aal” tree.
- Represent the rich and fascinating story of a unique, timeless tribal textile tradition in Odisha
- Original traditional weaving saree on pit looms in coarse cotton yarn,
- Motifs drawn from nature, common one’s crab, conch, boat, axes, fan, bow, temple, pots, snakes, palanquin bearers, and huts.
- weaving material and designs diversified to fine count cotton and silk
- Product diversified to shawls and stoles
- Registered as “Kotpad Handloom Fabric”- Handicraft (application no.10, certificate date: 02.06.2005.)
- Odisha’s first Geographical Indication (GI)

“Orissa Ikat” – Bichitrapuri Saree
Unique and one of the most popular handwoven traditional sarees, woven by the highly skilled weavers of Bargarh district, Odisha.
Typical double Ikat both along warp and weft. Common design- geometric chess board (Pasapalli) in the body
Incorporates traditional touch , common motifs drawn from nature and culture like shankha (conch shell), chakra(wheel), phulla (flower), and animals
Traditional fish or rudraksha motifs are woven on the borders in extra warp technique.
Body dyed in bright intense colours
Weaving material and designs diversified to fine count cotton and silk
Product diversified to dress material & stole
Registered as “Orissa Ikat” Type- Handicraft

Fabrics
Origin in the culture and tradition of Lord Jagannath, Puri, Odisha and the famous “Gita Govind” {songs in honour of Lord Govind ( Krishna)} penned by Jayadev, 12th Century eminent poet of Odisha.
As per the diktat of the king, the script of verses “Gita Govind” was to be woven on silk for offering to the Lord. The weaving had to be done in parts, meaning “Khanda” in Odiya, which led to the genesis of Khandua sarees.
Along with Pattachitra, engraving on palm leaves and Gotipua dance, it forms an integral part of the rich culture and tradition of Odisha
woven in 2 to 4 ply silk yarn Single Ikat ( tie & dye or Bandha) –
typical to Nuapatna/ Maniabandh area of Cuttack district in coastal Odisha
Main produce Saree with Border in warp tie & dye and Anchal
(Pallu) in weft tie & dye.
common motifs drawn from nature – lotus, lion, elephant and
creepers designed with bold and natural curves.
Weaving in cotton was taken up for lowering the cost, which made it more affordable and popular and increased the demand.
Gradually expanded the base to adjoining areas
Product diversified to stole, scarfs, and dress material.
“Khandua Saree & Fabrics” registered Type- Handicraft

Gopalpur Tussar fabrics
- Silk is produced by reeling (unwinding of fibers) silk cocoon, made by the silkworm while metamorphosing from larva to pupae stage. Silk is broadly of two categories (i) Mulberry silk (indigenous to temperate countries like China & Japan) and (ii) Non-mulberry silk (indigenous to tropical countries like India.)
- Tassar is one of the non-mulberry silk, produced in India by reeling the cocoon of tassar silkworm, which grows outdoor and feeds on the arjan and assan leaves. It is natural grey in colour. Usually, fiber from 4 to 5 cocoons are reeled together for making the tassar yarn.
- Pierced cocoons are spun to tassar gicha yarn, which is thicker and are used for weaving shawls and chaddars.
- Tassar sarees woven in Gopalpur of Jajpur district has a unique type of luster. Tassar yarn is also dyed in different colours. It is woven with extra warp on border and tie & dye on body and anchal.
- Tassar fabrics include saree, scarfs, stole, dress materials, chaddars, dupattas, bedsheets, furnishing, and wall hangings.
- Gopalpur Tussar Fabrics registered under Geographical Indication (GI) Type- Handicraft, application no.167, date 06.01.2012.

Dhalapathar Parda & Fabrics
- originated from “Dhalapathar” village, Khorda district, Odisha.(60 kms. from Bhubaneswar)
-
Woven with thick threads using a special weaving technique with the help of Chiaris and cotton handmade Heald shafts.
- wall hangings are woven with same construction as door curtains in different sizes with different cultural designs.
- involve intricate thread work on the border and the pallu.
- Original traditional weaving used to be parda (door curtain), wall hanging, table cover
- Usually dyed in intense colours, with borders in contrasting colors with 3 shuttle weft and the pallus in extra weft with intricate thread work.
- Traditional motifs inspired by temple structure nature
- unique design and beauty has got places in the doors of many handloom, art and craft loving people of Odisha
- Product diversified to dress material & stole.
-
“Dhalapathar Parda and Fabrics” Type- Handicraft
registered under Geographical Indication (GI)
application no. 207, certificate date: 17.07.2012.

Sambalpuri Bandha Saree & Fabrics
-
Unique and one of the most popular handwoven
traditional sarees,woven by the highly skilled weavers of Bargarh district, Odisha. - Extra warp and Ikat technique woven with checked pattern in the body and broad & elaborate border.
- common motifs used are shankha (conch shell), chakra(wheel), phulla (flower), and fish woven on the borders in extra warp technique.
- Dyed in bright intense colours
- weaving material and designs diversified to fine count
cotton and silk - Product diversified to dress material & stole
-
“Sambalpuri Bandha Saree & Fabrics” Type- Handicraft
registered under Geographical Indication (GI),
application no.208, certificate date: 17.07.2012.

Bichitrapuri Saree
- Unique and one of the most popular handwoven traditional sarees.
- woven by the highly skilled weavers of Bargarh district, Odisha.
- Typical double Ikat both along warp and weft. Common design- geometric chess board (Pasapalli) in the body
- Incorporates traditional touch , common motifs drawn from nature and culture like shankha (conch shell), chakra(wheel), phulla (flower), and animals
- Traditional fish or rudraksha motifs are woven on the borders in extra warp technique.
- Body dyed in bright intense colours
- Weaving material and designs diversified to fine count cotton and silk.
- Product diversified to dress material & stole
- Orissa Ikat registered as Geographical Indication (GI) Type- Handicraft, application no.22, certificate date: 02.06.2005.

Utakal Laxmi
- A traditional design, subset of Sambalpuri Stands for “Utkal”( Excellence in art- other name of Odisha state) and “Lakshmi” (Goddess of wealth & prosperity, synonymous with women).
- Saree designed with flower motifs in multi-colour check board pattern.
- Body as well as Pallu woven in double Ikat (Bandh / Tie & Dye).
- Border extra warp with Rudraksha motifs using dobby.
- Elaborate colours and patterns make it highly artistic & exquisite.

Bomkai Saree & Fabrics
- Originated from “Bomkai” village of Ganjam district, Odisha, later spread to Sonepur, Boudh, Dhenkanal district.
- Woven with extra weft design using jala technique.
- Has intricate thread work on the border and the pallu.
- Original and traditional weaving saree using coarse cotton yarn, heavier than cotton and silk sarees.
- Dyed in intense colours.
- Borders in contrasting colors with 3 shuttle weft and the pallus in extra weft with intricate thread work.
- Traditional motifs inspired by nature like swan, deer, lotus, lion and flower.
- Weaving material and designs diversified to fine count cotton and silk.
- Product diversified into dress material & stole.
-
“Bomkai Saree & Fabrics” Type- Handicraft
registered under Geographical Indication (GI)
application no.217 certificate date 17.07.2012.

Habaspuri
- Originated from Chicheguda and Kalahandi District, Odisha.
- Woven with remarkable Anchal, lavishly decorated by traditional motifs.
- Involve intricate thread work on the border and the pallu.
- Original traditional weaving used to be saree with Body is decorated with small Butis
- The extra warp temple motifs are arranged longitudinally on the border.
- Motifs and patterns widely influenced by the region such as temples, fish and flowers.
- Habaspuri Saree and Fabrics registered under Geographical Indication(GI) Type- Handicraft,
application no.219, date 17.07.2012.

Berhampur Patta (Phoda Kumbha) Saree & Joda
- Origin Berhampur town of Ganjam district in the coastal parts of southern Odisha.
- The fabrics is woven using mulberry silk yarn ( known as patta)
- Typical feature of this fabrics is “Phoda Khumbha” or temple design woven along the border with a special technique.
- The border is designed with temple, Katuri, motifs as kumbhas, whereas achal is designed in extra weft called “Salari”.
- The woven products include saree for ladies, separate dhoti and chaddar for gents, joda (combined dhoti and chaddar), stoles
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Berhampur Patta (Phoda Kumbha) Saree & Joda Type- Handicraft
Geographical Indication (GI) registration application no.220
certificate date 17.07.2012.
